[冬日激賞] 西裝、皮鞋、皮件討論帖 (22)

之前答應了喵兄要給入門的朋友們寫些東西，因為懶而拖了好一陣子，方才在這裡與人辯論，才驚覺有些事情並不是如我所想的常識。

剛才那位巴打所講的袋布做錯，我也跟朋友討論了一下，這其實是某些香港本地裁縫的一個做法，如果換了特別的內裡，他們會在袋布上再覆上一層內裡，以求美觀。但一般都是客人特別要求才會咁做，果位巴打巴情況如魚蛋所講，好大機會係工場師傅屎忽痕得閒得滯搞出黎。

咁細的一塊裡布，點裁都偷到出黎的，應該不存在鋪頭想慳果少少就唔訂既問題，工場一定有剩。

我們姑且先把這做法是否必須放到一邊，因為在該位朋友的眼中，一件外套有做、而另一件沒有，對他而言就是一個錯漏，是他不能接受的。

我要強調的是另一件事，是「到裁縫鋪造衫收貨時出了問題應該如何處理。」

由於裁縫鋪多數不是大批生產，而是每張單的客人都有不同的要求、不同的身材，話雖然不好聽，但忙中出錯是很正常的，而且這不限於香港，而是世界性的問題。舉個例：像我在拿坡里Formosa 2016年訂了一套衣服，今年一月本想著能收貨，然而卻出了問題：大腿小了、褲頭緊了、上袖角度不對、褲頭款式做錯了、誤幫我加了皮帶扣⋯⋯

其實如果遇到做錯、做漏的情況，身為客人的我們大可以先不用急，也不用收在心裡把貨給吞了，而應該好好溝通，讓該負責的人把東西做好，達到可以交貨的標準，大家開心。

哪怕是收了貨後才發現問題，又或者是身材改變了衣服穿不下，把東西帶回出品的店鋪，大多數情況下他們都會為客人修改、處理好。最少在在第一頁裡我們推薦的店鋪，都是願意為自己產品負責任的店鋪。如果處理不好、溝通失敗後，再上網訴苦也不遲。

討論時也不妨附上照片，好讓巴打們可以判斷到底是甚麼情況，也免去了「有心人」惡意攻擊對手或打手蓄意「吹捧」店鋪的情況。

你都痴根

唔通因為左要個浪高，頂住自己條J成日咩

嘩，真係好dum心，比錢買難受，難得巴打講出黎等大家唔洗中伏

呢篇係我當初寫俾新手們的，原本係中文版，英版係Jerry幫我翻譯，中文版我屎忽痕之前刪走左，如果有邊位師兄得閒得滯無野做可以上下譯番做中文將佢擺去第一頁，內容 base on 我同Patrick Chu做既訪問，講講下都講緊兩年幾前⋯⋯

Due to the surge of interest in bespoke tailoring in recent years along with the countless stories of first bespoke experiences being less than optimal, I set out to meet with Messrs. Patrick Chu and Arnold Wong from W. W. Chan to find out from a purveyor’s perspective what a customer should look out for. Fortunately, they graciously agreed to this interview and we sincerely hope the following discourse will be of great benefit to prospective customers.

Q1. In determining how well a suit fits, what is the most important area to consider?

As a bespoke suit is created for an individual’s body, the suit’s fit must be assessed when worn on the customer’s body to be of a proper length and width across different areas of the body, as well as achieving a proper overall balance. We understand this sounds abstract so let us take a closer look at specific parts that we look out for. To us, a bespoke suit starts around the neck, so we first consider if the collar is the right size for the customer’s neck. From there, we follow the shoulder seam down to examine the shoulder line is clean and ensure that the shoulder seam is in the right place. We then move downwards to the chest, waist and then take a look at the overall balance. Of course the back and areas under the chest are also very important and we must make sure there are no unsightly creases and breaks to the suit’s lines.


Q2: What should prospective customers consider when ordering clothes?

Each person has different requirements when it comes to their wardrobe, hence it is a necessity that these requirements be on the back of the customer’s mind when ordering. Such requirements can include the purpose and/or occasion for the garments – workplace, leisure or for a wedding? What sort of climate? Determining these will be paramount in finding suitable fabrics and ruling out others. After this, a customer should think about the style and any other preferences they may have, such as amount of construction (soft or structured), etc. Naturally, one must also consider what would flatter their body type to emphasise strong features and downplay others that are less than ideal. To this end, customers should ask their tailor and trust their judgment.

條褲搞到成個人既比例超怪

Q3: For a new customer’s first suit, what do you normally recommend for fabric?

For a first suit, we typically suggest either selecting a navy or medium grey suiting, as the versatility of these colours is unrivaled, particularly for any work environment. We would advise against black as those garments should only be reserved for formal occasions or funerals. As for the fabric type and composition, we would push for a moderate Super 100s classic worsted wool. Hopsacks (open weave wool not suitable for trousers) and Frescos (a unique high-twist worsted fabric) would also make great choices although they have a rougher hand than classic worsteds and new customers may find them somewhat less comfortable. On the other side of the spectrum, we advocate for a moderate worsted because although high Super number wools (150s and up) are luxuriously soft and silky, they are more prone to creasing, retain their shape poorly, tend to be far more expensive, require more maintenance and are not nearly as robust as their moderate Super number worsted cousins. Super 100s-120s worsted wools strike a much better balance in these respects.

Q4: During the bespoke process what should a customer look out for? Are there any common pitfalls that should be avoided?

First the customer must understand that major changes to the garments’ shapes must be made at the basted stage as they will be largely fixed by the forward fitting and any further interim fittings prior to delivery. The customer must make sure that during the measuring and all fittings that they are relaxed and standing normally (meaning not sucking in their stomachs or standing particularly erect) to ensure the garments hang properly on a daily basis and not just in front of a mirror. During fittings, we also encourage customers to wear a shirt, properly fitted trousers and dress shoes and avoid trainers, jeans and trousers with side adjusters as these may lead to an imprecise fitting. On this vein a customer should be aware that the garments are unfinished during the fitting stages so they will not be perfect. Lastly, we hope customers would appreciate that compromises may sometimes have to be made with their choice of fabric and preferred style and we try our utmost best to make these known during the initial consultation, so please understand that after a fabric is cut for a fitting that there is no going back with cloth and style.

Ultimately, communication is key in any bespoke commission as the garments are a meeting of minds between tailor and client. Without the tailor’s expertise and input, as well as the client’s wishes, the outcome may not be satisfactory.

Q5: If a customer does not understand what their tailor is saying (jargon or otherwise), what should he do?

We suggest communicating through the use of pins, chalk and constant feedback. Ask the tailor to show what he is changing by pinning the garment and marking with chalk when pinning is not possible and then tell him how you feel and if any further adjustments need to be made until you are satisfied. We do not think it is absolutely necessary for you to understand and use the jargon when communicating with a tailor unless it is of interest to you. Communicate instead the look you are going for, let the tailor pin and mark the changes he would suggest to achieve the look, and then provide feedback on any further changes you think might be needed.

Of course, this is only the first instalment on this series. If you, the readers, have any other burning questions you might want to ask, please leave your questions as a comment or shoot us an email and we will be sure to pass them onto our tailors in the future.

瘋狂爆字⋯⋯

你都你想串人地腿短姐？

依張你會唔會覺得順眼D

算啦人地話身材唔好會對唔住套西裝架

無計

都唔知邊個先非黑即白
人地問下西裝有咩問題就要人做GYM尊重，cutting唔滿意就叫人開名全港blacklist咁

下Ambrosi Cutting係好但好夾蛋嘎

仲要條褲唔係佢既

唔該哂2位, 冇錯我講左N咁多次係想問recommendation, 唔知點解會比人衝出黎咬住唔放

至於dreams lining果到, 我講多最後呢次唔會再回覆呢一樣野

我做2套西裝, 2套都加錢換唔同LINING, A西裝配1 號LINING, B西裝配2號LINING

結果出黎係A西裝心口袋配1號LINING, B西裝LINING正常用2號, 心口位又係配1號

我都講左我唔識, 亦冇提出過乜野特別要求袋要唔要換, 各位巴打自己判斷, 以上情況係唔係公廠做其中一件多手, 定係間鋪唔夠布, 而且亦唔識所謂既"正確"做法 (2套西裝default都用左LINING做心口袋)

我發現果陣已經係著上身幾星期後, 呢D平時睇唔到既地方我亦懶得返去改, 所以我第一個POST跟住冇寫有咩問題, 有人問我先講, 既然間野講到咁好, 點解阿RICKY經手收到2套西裝又唔會發現呢D地方???

如果真係咁PRO, 一開始就2套都唔用LINING做袋, 呢個問題直情唔會存在
如果格硬話係工廠問題, 咁你間野決定去搵呢間廠, 出問題唔通係個客問題??? 你唔做QC架咩???

我唔係比幾萬蚊做套SUITS, 冇要求你要幾完美, 我連你袋要用咩布我都冇理, 但係dreams 亦唔算低價便宜貨, 要求有consistency 好過份?

本來問條好簡單既問題, 唔小心踩親人條尾又要比人話鳩又盛咁, 如果真金白銀去做衫都要自己學識哂以防對方信唔過 / "唔小心過失" 我真係唔知你係幫佢定倒佢米

要講既係咁多, 唔該

褲問題姐

朋友，不如你睇番你一開始講左啲咩啦⋯⋯我好聲好氣同你講其實好正常，你就一句掉埋黎問我係咪打手，我都真係唔明邊句踩親你。

做裁縫鋪唔係做廠，一人一單，出錯係好常見的，如果你唔理解呢個現實，你去到邊間都一樣會谷氣谷到上心口我明白你作為消費者既心情，但身為消費者同時亦做過行內人，我可以同你講現實就是這樣子。

學我朋友話：「有啲大公司嘅廠每 proceed 落下個 step 之前都會有個checklist qc同簽名，不過時間成本都幾高下，裁縫呢行唔係咁易行呢套。」，莫講話一萬幾千，我三萬四萬一套西裝都做過，亦出過錯。

無人針對你，亦唔係偏幫DB。大家推薦DB係因為作為中價裁縫，佢地提供既工藝同產品有不錯水平，同時出問題肯為啲野負責，而唔係當啲客波咁射。

呢個世界好現實，你俾幾多錢就拎到啲咩。尤其是裁縫、裝修之類既傳統行業，消費者點都要跟多兩眼，這不是常態嗎？

有時作為消費者，筆直得一萬幾千，又要full canvass、又要岩晒身、又要好服務、又要唔出錯，係好難的，所以大家一直都話，寬容啲，有問題咪拎番去改囉，又唔係唔幫你改，幾咁閒？又何必咁勞氣？

認真，條褲無乜問題wo

新手想問打鞋鐵去邊打同大概幾錢
利申著緊cheap雞野Paul Smith 2個月先識要打鐵

地點頭post
新鞋三百樓下一對

第一頁有，兩百零三百蚊啦你預

佢睇唔慣高腰褲

Thx 巴打們 不過想問係咪真係需要
Frd話打完會好冼同行路勁大聲 寧願等佢穿換底