[繼續開post]西裝,皮鞋討論帖(5)

1001 回覆
5 Like 1 Dislike
2017-06-09 15:55:28

情況唔係好同,依家vass似乎想交晒俾班retailer。始終email好煩,你班友買對鞋分分鐘要五到十個email。佢要一封封答同處理,彈貨又R呢樣果樣。

班retailer一封email就最少有幾對,仲會幫佢執埋手尾,係就係每對賺少左,但佢可以慳番好多effort。

好多布廠、鞋廠俾exclusive dealership外國,都係因為唔想煩,仲有人幫佢做埋宣傳。That's why就算某d agent/retailer 食水深,都唔會影響到佢地地位就係咁解。


講起布,好耐冇買布 好想好像以前甘一大班人團購平布

講真。依家最好既果班裁縫,一係唔接cmt,一係cmt工錢同用house fabric無咩分別。平工錢cmt好多時只係唔夠量既鋪用黎養工場既權宜之計,對鋪既風險係好大。

例如:如果款或細節做錯左,去邊比番塊布個客?就算訂得番塊布,唔同卷都會有色差。如果係鋪自己訂布,都有機會即刻訂番同一卷,色差風險都細d。但如果客帶布,點知個客幾時訂,擺左幾耐?(擺耐左都會色變)

更何況有d布可能已經discontinued搵唔番。

舊時大家做cmt,係默認就算裁縫做錯都唔會賠布,最多唔收或收少d工錢。但依家d後生上網睇完一輪,做個cmt又要求呢樣要求果樣,做完又要彈工彈四,做錯少少又要賠布。

鬼得閒理你地咩 當人唔洗開飯咁


牛肉巴打講左現今生態!
依家好多人比10蚊出來要拿番11蚊,見人地有自己又要有但又唔諗下自己比咩價錢。大佬呀,人地都要開飯架,都要賺你錢,差左合唔合理Jer. 講真冇錢賺鬼同你做。
成日想拿10蚊做到20蚊貨,又唔諗下人地比幾錢出來買。好像隔離錶post有個人成日問勞力士來貨幾錢幾錢,大佬呀呢d商業秘密做咩3唔識7甘係網上公佈?再者真係比你知來貨價又點,你冇可能買到。人地勞都要保障其他dealer, 一個人做爛市實有人嘈,到頭來棧大家都冇得買。

可憐我呢d享受買布做3樂趣既小朋友冇得再玩


好彩呢度無包頭王,唔係好快就嘈交


講真,就算比你搵到wwchan個包頭或師傅 (假設佢有)幫你做,你都做唔到wwchan水平。你識唔識同師傅溝通?你有冇甘牙力叫師傅做到同交貨比wwchan一樣水平?個師傅會唔會show你?就算師傅肯做你生意,會唔會甘好心機幫你做同試身再改?師傅起到貨比你就過主la. 你一年做幾多件3都一定唔夠wwchan既生意多。
我去幫襯鋪頭,多一分少一分唔鍾意鋪頭都會幫我諗掂佢,搵師傅邊會有甘好服務


始終有人當砌機咁砌,唔理解textile呢樣野唔係單計錢,重有技藝同溝通,件野亦唔係一啪入去就work

2017-06-09 15:58:47
巴打們,牛仔褲加皮鞋應該點樣着襪呀

咩鞋先
2017-06-09 17:04:14

巴打邊到買vass


上星期Truck Show,平時請愛用Finesxxxx
因Mr Kuti離左職,呢期直接email落未必得,亦可能會亂


竟然離咗職,知唔知因乜事?
之前Kuti仲話我下次訂鞋可以幫我改改個last就隻怪腳,希望換咗人唔會冇咗件事


睇返SF Vass Post, Mr. Kuti似乎會跟埋未完成舊單,你或者先email問定啦


最驚佢改policy要舊客(幫襯過budapest store)都只能經當地dealer訂鞋


咁又難既,Alden 都未去到咁

情況唔係好同,依家vass似乎想交晒俾班retailer。始終email好煩,你班友買對鞋分分鐘要五到十個email。佢要一封封答同處理,彈貨又R呢樣果樣。

班retailer一封email就最少有幾對,仲會幫佢執埋手尾,係就係每對賺少左,但佢可以慳番好多effort。

好多布廠、鞋廠俾exclusive dealership外國,都係因為唔想煩,仲有人幫佢做埋宣傳。That's why就算某d agent/retailer 食水深,都唔會影響到佢地地位就係咁解。


咁又係,我成日都覺Kuti係神人,咁多email一腳踢,又要兼顧舖頭其他工作,都可以keep住咁好service......
依家Kuti走咗,乘機將啲嘢下放哂俾retailer都確係無可厚非
2017-06-09 17:14:33
之前有巴打問GAT,epaulet有新一水 Ilcea Museum Calf Sneaker & Boot Summer 2017 Project,雖然出貨都已經十月十一月

https://epauletnewyork.com/products/museum-calf-sneaker-boot-summer-2017-project?variant=31563608201

Ilcea呢期d museum calf真心狗也不屌


仍然有問題?

上一次聽到人講lasting裂開係今個月頭


重係咁脆,係皮質問題定Tanning出事?

唔清楚


見epaulet Mike咁寫,我估係皮質真係同Ilcea以前既貨唔同左

1) Ilcea folded operations around 2013. I remember this time as we did our very first wholesale order with Vass and I bought a bunch of styles in museum calf. I placed the order in the Summer and all was well, but then they couldn't deliver it as the factory had gone under.

2) At some point, they were purchased by Gruppo Vecchia Toscana and production was reopened. I'm thinking this happened around 2014. Vecchia Toscana is a huge outfit that makes a ton of leather. Some of it is higher end and much of it is very mass market. They most likely acquired Ilcea to build out the top-end business.

3) I met with the Vecchia Toscana team at the Lineapella show in Milan in 2015 and looked at their entire product range. They offered a very similar (look-wise) product to Ilcea's Museum Calf. It was also called "Radica" (which means "root" in Italian), but the skin used was cowhide, not calfskin.

4) This cowhide Radica was a lot less expensive. I wouldn't call it poor quality, that's just what it was.. a less pricey and more mass-market way to create the effect of Ilcea Radica. The skin was less supple and the dye pattern was less vibrant and intricate. It's very possible that some manufacturers used this Radica, billed it as "Museum Calf" (which I don't believe is an official name anyway) and customers noticed a difference between the two.
2017-06-09 22:40:26
巴打們,牛仔褲加皮鞋應該點樣着襪呀

咩鞋先

類似 oxford 或者有少少雕花個 d
2017-06-09 23:04:09
巴打們,牛仔褲加皮鞋應該點樣着襪呀

咩鞋先

類似 oxford 或者有少少雕花個 d

對鞋咩色先
2017-06-10 00:14:50

留明,夏天上身唔着嬲casual可以點襯皮鞋
2017-06-10 00:25:48

留明,夏天上身唔着嬲casual可以點襯皮鞋


答唔答到你個問題?
2017-06-10 00:30:32

留明,夏天上身唔着嬲casual可以點襯皮鞋


答唔答到你個問題?

carry唔到 個腩已經出賣左我
如果短袖恤衫可以點玩?
2017-06-10 00:54:33

留明,夏天上身唔着嬲casual可以點襯皮鞋


答唔答到你個問題?

carry唔到 個腩已經出賣左我
如果短袖恤衫可以點玩?

無腩
無短恤
幫你唔到
風格唔一樣
身材差幾遠下
留俾其他巴打答
2017-06-10 09:15:42

留明,夏天上身唔着嬲casual可以點襯皮鞋


答唔答到你個問題?

carry唔到 個腩已經出賣左我
如果短袖恤衫可以點玩?

無腩
無短恤
幫你唔到
風格唔一樣
身材差幾遠下
留俾其他巴打答


思歪巴打見佢會Chukka同Chelsea
我懶西,多數Moc,Chukka同Tassel Loafer
2017-06-10 09:21:09

留明,夏天上身唔着嬲casual可以點襯皮鞋


答唔答到你個問題?

carry唔到 個腩已經出賣左我
如果短袖恤衫可以點玩?

無腩
無短恤
幫你唔到
風格唔一樣
身材差幾遠下
留俾其他巴打答


思歪巴打見佢會Chukka同Chelsea
我懶西,多數Moc,Chukka同Tassel Loafer

我冇chelsea都想買對
但我會著plain toe boot
夏天loafer 冇走雞
Plain toe blucher 應該都唔錯
2017-06-10 09:39:53
好撚曬
2017-06-10 09:41:16
巴打們,牛仔褲加皮鞋應該點樣着襪呀

咩鞋先

類似 oxford 或者有少少雕花個 d

對鞋咩色先

啡色
2017-06-10 10:14:37
好撚曬


個底融左未
2017-06-10 10:39:22
巴打們,牛仔褲加皮鞋應該點樣着襪呀

咩鞋先

類似 oxford 或者有少少雕花個 d

對鞋咩色先

啡色

咩啡先得架 描述得精確少少啦大佬
2017-06-10 10:42:46
唔好意思
想問下皮鞋白色車線,hi到黑色鞋油係咪無得救嫁啦
2017-06-10 11:02:22
巴打們,牛仔褲加皮鞋應該點樣着襪呀

咩鞋先

類似 oxford 或者有少少雕花個 d

對鞋咩色先

啡色

咩啡先得架 描述得精確少少啦大佬


講開顏色,我真係唔識如可可以準確描述不同程度既啡或藍。。。
2017-06-10 11:10:59
繼續頹
2017-06-10 11:13:29
巴打們,牛仔褲加皮鞋應該點樣着襪呀

咩鞋先

類似 oxford 或者有少少雕花個 d

對鞋咩色先

啡色

咩啡先得架 描述得精確少少啦大佬


講開顏色,我真係唔識如可可以準確描述不同程度既啡或藍。。。


tanned, congac, Fox, Brown, dark brown, snuff
2017-06-10 11:18:23
繼續頹

BL?
2017-06-10 11:20:12
繼續頹

BL?


BL
2017-06-10 11:50:18
繼續頹

巴打你呢對BL tassel幾錢?
2017-06-10 11:54:45
繼續頹

巴打你呢對BL tassel幾錢?


3100
2017-06-10 12:52:28
唔好意思
想問下皮鞋白色車線,hi到黑色鞋油係咪無得救嫁啦

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