[若水之夏] 西裝、皮鞋、皮件討論帖 (35)
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早幾日Simon Crompton同Jesper有篇文講呢樣野：
https://www.permanentstyle.com/2020/06/what-are-the-best-cheaper-shoe-brands.html
“Crocketts uses good quality raw materials, particularly the upper, but the make is a bit simpler. With Carmina you can get a more refined shoe - closed-channel stitching, a more bevelled waist and so on.
“Another area where a lot of the English makers fall down, at this price level and below, is the soles, which aren’t as good as Spanish brands in general. They wear down quickly.”
TLB (above) is a good example of how much more dynamic the Spanish shoe market is than the English.
TLB is from Mallorca, like Carmina, but is only a few years old and is trying to gain a similar reputation. It’s a comparable quality level, at a slightly lower price, and uses leather-board heel stiffeners.
The heel stiffener is a piece of the internal structure of the shoe, which sits inside the heel cup. If it is plastic, it means it can’t adapt to your heel shape over time, improving the fit. Leather board can, and top-end shoes use pure leather, which adapts even more.
This is more important for those that don’t find heels fit them well, generally. But if the heel is good to start with, it doesn’t matter so much if it can flex and adapt.
TLB also has a new line called Artista*, which is a higher level of quality than any in this article. The shoes have a slim bevelled waist (stitched all the way to the heel), a close-cut heel and a leather heel stiffener.
https://www.permanentstyle.com/2020/06/what-are-the-best-cheaper-shoe-brands.html
“Crocketts uses good quality raw materials, particularly the upper, but the make is a bit simpler. With Carmina you can get a more refined shoe - closed-channel stitching, a more bevelled waist and so on.
“Another area where a lot of the English makers fall down, at this price level and below, is the soles, which aren’t as good as Spanish brands in general. They wear down quickly.”
TLB (above) is a good example of how much more dynamic the Spanish shoe market is than the English.
TLB is from Mallorca, like Carmina, but is only a few years old and is trying to gain a similar reputation. It’s a comparable quality level, at a slightly lower price, and uses leather-board heel stiffeners.
The heel stiffener is a piece of the internal structure of the shoe, which sits inside the heel cup. If it is plastic, it means it can’t adapt to your heel shape over time, improving the fit. Leather board can, and top-end shoes use pure leather, which adapts even more.
This is more important for those that don’t find heels fit them well, generally. But if the heel is good to start with, it doesn’t matter so much if it can flex and adapt.
TLB also has a new line called Artista*, which is a higher level of quality than any in this article. The shoes have a slim bevelled waist (stitched all the way to the heel), a close-cut heel and a leather heel stiffener.
整體CJ用皮係好過TLB，軟點亦裁得較好，Last選擇多，款式亦多，做工穩定
TLB Artista 系列就的確比CJ Benchgrade有優勢
TLB Artista 系列就的確比CJ Benchgrade有優勢
想請教下大家, 小弟180CM, 78KG, 小腿高達腳咁粗壯, 想訂造西褲褲款有乜介紹? 我試過求其搵間造過一條, 佢要就返我mou低, 行路之類動作, 最後個褲型好娘, 就知同審美有關呢家野D錢慳唔到, 求大家指教
我有TLB Artista penny loafer 同 CJ tassels loafer
同樣都係dark brown calf，就upper 上會明顯睇到cj 用料比較細膩，而TLB 都唔係差，但會感受到cj 隻皮更佳。
鞋底cj 就係做返基本野，對比TLB artista，咁TLB 既closed channel stitching、好窄既鞋腰、秀氣d既heel，當然比cj更具gimmick。
兩對鞋著落都舒服，cj 就紮實，tlb 會感覺秀氣d，但如果腳板闊，著TLB 行果陣都有機會係兩邊撐爆開
同樣都係dark brown calf，就upper 上會明顯睇到cj 用料比較細膩，而TLB 都唔係差，但會感受到cj 隻皮更佳。
鞋底cj 就係做返基本野，對比TLB artista，咁TLB 既closed channel stitching、好窄既鞋腰、秀氣d既heel，當然比cj更具gimmick。
兩對鞋著落都舒服，cj 就紮實，tlb 會感覺秀氣d，但如果腳板闊，著TLB 行果陣都有機會係兩邊撐爆開
我覺得tlb artista 得兩個last 選擇太少
兩個last冇可能襯得晒四大鞋款
兩個last冇可能襯得晒四大鞋款
最近買多左少少鞋反而有少少唔同睇法
某程度上last啱腳嘅話對視覺效果嘅幫助反而仲大過一d”selling point” eg ultra tight waist
而Cj作為傳統鞋廠個last選擇多好多，唔同腳型都較容易搵到啱腳嘅last, 某程度上好過TLB (high instep & roomy vamp)
某程度上last啱腳嘅話對視覺效果嘅幫助反而仲大過一d”selling point” eg ultra tight waist
而Cj作為傳統鞋廠個last選擇多好多，唔同腳型都較容易搵到啱腳嘅last, 某程度上好過TLB (high instep & roomy vamp)
最後買咗traveller 個款classic 啲但係啱身啲
Cashmere lining 好舒服
個salesperson 話有啲客著西裝外面再著件traveller 聽落好似有啲奇怪
Casual 著襯loafers/sneakers 會唔會好怪
Rich
牛巴鐘情懶佬鞋？
因為太撚懶
唔使鞋帶
貼完鞋順便貼衫，雖然唔多岩星期一拋磚希望大家多貼圖
拋磚希望大家多貼圖
型！ 下身點著？鞋果張相咪影左
single monk款仲有冇做?
好 formal喎有，但其實呢對double黎
主要係件恤
鞋都係啦
Rich
